Polly’s Pink Recycled Cotton Sweater Finished!

 

Polly's Pink Sweater

Despite being a small child’s sweater, the Eloise Sweater took longer than anticipated to knit. Perhaps it was the fact that I tend to knit cotton on smaller needles since cotton has a tendency to stretch. For a child, this may not be a bad thing since the sweater could grow with the child. For Polly, I made the 2 year old size in hopes that she would grow into it. I think that my tight knitting made it more of a 1 year old size.

 

The Eloise Sweater pattern from Lion’s Brand is a bottom up pattern where you knit the back and two front panels and sleeves. Once you get to the yoke, you put all five pieces on a circular needle and knit a seamless yoke. Unlike a top down raglan sweater, there are seams to be sewn which can be a drawback for some knitters.

I  recommend this pattern for those of you in search of an easy child’s sweater. As a child’s garment, it  can be worn all year round. It’s a good carry around project since it’s small.

As for the Lion Brand recycled cotton, I thought the fact that it’s made from t-shirts cool. Also, it contains about one quarter polyester so that it can go through the washing machine which is a must for any child’s garment. I didn’t like the fact that the threads can come apart so that it occasionally results in pulled threads.

Submitted by Knitted Yarns Editor-in-Chief

 

Mom’s Improvised Sweater – Knitting Instructions Included

 

Mom's Improvised Drop Shoulder Ribbed Sweater

To show that I come by my ability to visualize and adapt knitting patterns naturally, I am showing off my mother’s grey improvised sweater. 

I gave my mom this wonderful grey linen blend which contains flecks of white since my mother always has room for one more grey item in her wardrobe. One of my uptown knitting buddies had given it to me when she was destashing. It seems that my knitting friends all know that I can envision how to turn some longer cherished stash into something wonderful. 

Since there was sufficient yarn for a sweater, my mother decided to adapt a simplified pattern that she had used before. At its core, the pattern consists of two rectangles which are sewn together at the shoulders forming a boat neck. Then stitches are picked up for sleeves which are knit down. This has the great advantage of allowing the knitter to measure the length as she goes which is good because the sweater has a dropped shoulder.

Before she started, my mom knit a swatch and we measured it. The swatch allowed my mom to try out a couple of variations of stitches. Then I took her measurements and applied some easy math to get the basic cast on. And she was off and knitting. 

You’ll note that my mom used a variety of ribbed stitches to make the sweater more fitted. 

If you’re interested in trying it, follow these easy steps:

1] Knit a swatch of at least 20 stitches using the appropriate needle for the yarn and your gauge.

2] Take your measurements. Add 2 inches to your widest measurement and divide that number by 2.

3] Multiply the number of stitches per inch by half of your measurement to get your cast on number of stitches.

4] Knit 2 rectangles to the length that you want your sweater to be. My mom knit about 24 inches.

5] Sew the shoulders together (Take the measurement from step 2 and subtract 8 inches. Then divide by 2 this is the number of inches that you need to sew on each shoulder.)

6] Pick up stitches at the armhole. My mother used 8 inches * her stitch gauge (with half of the stitches picked up on either side.) She then slowly decreased to her wrist. I usually decrease every 10 rows a couple of times, then 8 rows a couple of times, etc. until I have the appropriate amount for my wrist.

Happy knitting!

Green Mitered Tank Top Done!

My Green Mitered Tank Top in 100% cotton with slubs is finished. I used Norah Gaughan’s pattern in the Summer 2009 Vogue Knitting and love the shaping as I have mentioned before. I can’t recommend this pattern enough. Like many of Norah Gaughan’s patterns, the shaping is unusual. It starts with almost twice the number of stitches that there are in the bottom of the average sweater. By making a double decrease at two strategic points, the material drapes wonderfully. Of course, you need to be careful with the decreases since they need to be decorative.

 

Norah Gaughan's Mitered Tank Top in Green

 

Norah Gaughan Mitered Tank Top in Green with Extend Skirt

 

 

I adjusted the K1P1 rib to ensure that the line from the double decreases was followed up the garment. Further in the front, I moved the increases to build on this line to form darts. Since I inadvertently decreased too many stitches on the back, I didn’t change needles for the ribbing. 

My major change was that I didn’t use any metallic yarn or beading to highlight the trim as shown in Vogue Knitting. Further, I just followed my instincts on the neck decreases. If I were to make it again, I would make the neckline square to imitate the bottom of the garment (both front and back using mitered stitches to match.)

Unlike many of my knitting friends, I like to sew my knitted pieces together. I think that the clothes fit better and it gives me a sense of accomplishment.

Submitted by Knitted Yarns Editor-in-Chief

Wedding Sweater-Klimt Vest Needs Sleeves

Wedding Sweater Sleeve from Jean Moss Klimt Vest

One of the problems with using a vest pattern to make a sweater is that you need to reassess the armholes to ensure that they work for a sweater and that you’re on your own for knitting the sleeves. This is the challenge that I face with Jean Moss’ Klimt Vest. 

To help me, I used Interweave’s Handy Book of Patterns. It’s a great resource for those of you who enjoy modifying and creating sweaters that have your own personal touches. Since I have been adapting sweater patterns to fit me, I have a good idea of how they work. I am particularly fond of set in sleeves which  have a good fit and give a more tailored look. 

For the Klimt Vest, I used the chart on the set in sleeve pattern to develop the armhole on the back. I will use this pattern of decreases on the front of the sweater and will have matching decreases for the sleeve.

In terms of determining the number of stitches to cast on and increase to the widest part of the sleeve, I use the book’s charts for the number of stitches per inch and the intended wearer’s size. Since the people I knit for tend to have long arms, I generally work out the sleeve increases so that they happen at regular intervals that make sense for the wearer. I have had sweater patterns that wind up with weird upper arms since the pattern states keep knitting for longer sleeves. In reality, you need to keep increasing at a slower rate so that you don’t get little bat wings. 

Sleeve Cap Detail for Klimt Vest Wedding Sweater

Since the Klimt Vest has intense patterning across the front and back, which changes on both the knit and purl sides of the knitting, I decided to use one repeat of the pattern after the mosaic ribbing and to continue the sleeve using the mosaic ribbing. This simplified the knitting for the sleeve since I didn’t have to worry about maintaining a complex pattern as it changed on both sides of the sleeve. 

Wedding Sweater Wrist Detail from Klimt Vest

I love the way that this sweater is turning out. Since I need to finish it before our one year anniversary, I am bit concerned about the fact that it is taking longer than an average sweater to knit.

Submitted by Knitted Yarns Editor-in-Chief

Knitting Math for Wedding Present Sweater (aka Klimt Vest)

 

Klimt Vest Knitting Pattern

I am knitter with a mission: to finish my husband’s wedding present sweater before our first anniversary, a mere five weeks away. The sweater is based on the Klimt Vest from Jean Moss’ Sculptured Knits.

 

I am modifying the Klimt Vest pattern as follows:

1] Fiber. I am using Austermann’s Korfu.

2] Size. I knitting the wedding present sweater to fit my husband’s measurements in terms of width and length.

3] Sleeves. Since the pattern is for a vest, I am adding long sleeves, This requires modifying the armholes as well as figuring out the dimensions for the sleeves. 

KNITTING MATH

For those of you interested in understanding how to modify a pattern to fit your measurements or swatch, here’s what I do.

1] Knit and wash a swatch of the fiber I want to use. I recommend blocking the swatch. The goal is to get your stitch gauge for your wool and appropriate needles. 

2] Measure the number of stitches in 4 inches of your swatch. Then divide the number of stitches in 4 inches by 4 to get your number of stitches per inch. Note: It’s important to measure more than one inch since the tension, etc. may vary.

3] Divide your stitches per inch by the pattern’s number of stitches per inch. This result is the number that you use to adjust your number of stitches relative to the number of stitches in the pattern. If this number is less than one, you should have less stitches than the pattern. If this number is more than one, you should have more stitches than the pattern. 

4] Follow this process for all of the numbers in the pattern.

5] For areas such as the armholes and necklines and sleeve increases, check your results using Interweave’s The Knitter’s Handy Book of Sweater Patterns.

Note: This book is a great reference since it gives a very broad list of sizes and stitches per inch. This allows the knitter to check her math and to use their number of stitches for difficult areas such as the armhole.

Fortunately for me, the Klimt Vest has a 14 stitch repeat which had a multiple that was close to half of my husband’s measurement. Otherwise, I would have had to use part of a repeat at each end of the garment. This would have added complexity to my knitting. 

To date, I’ve knitted the back and front until the armholes. In planning the armholes, I checked my stitch projections against The Knitter’s Handy Book and made some modifications to simplify the pattern. (This pattern changes on both the front and back of the knitting.) Wish me luck as I start the armholes!

Submitted by Knitted Yarns Editor-in-Chief

Wedding Sweater Inspired by Jean Moss Klimt Vest

 

Wedding Present Sweater-Inspired by Jean Moss Klimt Vest

For our wedding, I promised my husband a sweater. While many of my knitting friends would say that he’s gotten his share of knitted goods including a Honeymoon Vest in Noro Sakura, I am making him another sweater. As with any wedding present, I’ve allowed myself a year to complete it. This would be good if I hadn’t been knitting others sweaters and other knitted pieces.

Since I want this to be a very special sweater, I’ve spent lots of time looking through my knitting books in search of the perfect sweater. This is one of those times when I had to choose a pattern and stick with it. I’ve selected the Klimt Vest from Jean Moss’ Sculptured Knits. It’s a great book for knitting with textures. As usual, I’m adapting the pattern. This is to ensure a good fit and make a vest into a sweater 

To ensure that he gets maximum use out of the sweater, I’m using the navy blue wool and cotton blend that I bought at the Joan Vass sale last spring. The yarnis Austermann’s Korfu and I have 20 balls which should be sufficient. It’s wonderfully soft although it requires size 3 needles and I’m probably knitting it too loosely as it is.

Submitted by: Knitted Yarns Editor-in-Cheif

New Spring Sweater in the Works!

 

Bouton D'Or New Jeans in Gray, Beige & White

Spring brings with it a sense of renewal. From a knitting perspective, that means time to start a new sweater project. 

While I have been testing some of the new summery yarns that I got at a recent yarn swap to see what the fibers want to be, I am going to make a long sleeve spring sweater instead. I am using the New Jeans from Bouton D’Or in gray, beige and white that I bought at the Joan Vass Sale last summer. It’s made from a combination of fibers including linen and composed of 6 threads combined into a single strand. 

After swatching it several times, I decided to use a purl 3/knit 1 rib or what I call a reverse rib. It shows off the beauty of the yarn and has vertical lines to accent the length. 

I am using the general pattern for a set-in sleeve in  the Interweave Handy Books of Sweater Patterns by Ann Budd. As usual, I am adapting the pattern to meet my measurements.

At first, I didn’t think that I’d have enough yarn to make more than a tank top despite the 120 yards per ball (of which I have 10!). So far, I’m onto my second ball and believe that I will make at least 3/4 length sleeves.

 

Long Sleeve Reverse Rib Sweater

2007 – The Year in Yarn

Looking back, 2007 was a year where my knitting made significant progress. When I consider the projects that I completed this year, I wonder where I found the time to make them all! By category, here are my 2007 finished objects:

SWEATERS

• Black and Red with Fair Isle Crewneck Sweater – Made from Karabella cashmere and silk blend. I created the pattern myself to use the leftover 4 1/2 balls of black that I had from another sweater. Since the yarn was purchased at the Lion and Lamb’s going out of business sale, I couldn’t return them!
• Hairy White Sweater – Made  in an acryllic blend from Anny Blatt. I discovered that once knitted up my skin didn’t react well well to the material, so I gave it to my sister who is more resilent to fiber content.
• Red Debbie Bliss Alpaca and Silk Sweater – Made in Debbie Bliss Alpaca and Silk  purchased at The Point. This cherry colored sweater is soft and warm.  I gave it to my mother for her birthday.
• Rust Silk Sweater – Made in 100% silk purchased at Silk City Fibers. It was a birthday present for my boyfriend.
• Yellow Silk and Grey Rayon Sweater in Wide Bamboo Stitch. Made in silk blend purchased at Silk City Fibers. I adapted a Sally Melville pattern from The Purl Stitch.
• Pink and Lavendar Summer Sweater. Made from Misti Alpaca pima cotton and silk purhcased at the Knit Cafe in Los Angeles. I started out to make a sleeveless top and decided that the swatch was warm and soft. When I called to order additional pink yarn, there was no more. As a result, the sweater combines the two colors.
• Laced-Front Sweater. Made from Brooks Farm Harmony purchased at Rhinebeck in 2006. This was a pattern from Knitted Lingerie.
• Cross Your Heart Sweater. Made from 100% fingering weight alpaca purchased at Rhinebeck in 2006. This sweater was adapted from a Rowan pattern.
• Origami Cardi. Made from 1oo% wool purchased at Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival 2007. This pattern appeared in Interweave Magazine in Summer 2007. It is probably my favorite project this year!
• Fishtail Lace Sweater. Made from 80% merino/20% cashmere blend purchased at The Point. This was a store pattern that I adapted and added long sleeves.

OTHER CLOTHING ITEMS

• After Dark Nightie. Made from Lang’s 100% Egyptian cotton in periwinkle blue purchased at the Joan Vass Sample Sale in 2006. I used the Mason Dixon Knitting book which inspired me to knit more lingerie. I have worn this nightie as a dress!
• Dad’s Vest. Made from Noro blend bought at Webs. Since my dad claims that he has too many sweaters, I made him a vest based on his measurements without a pattern.
• Red and Orange Ribbon Tank. Made from Seville ribbon purchased on sale at The Point. This project was a pain since the ribbon was so shiny that it kept twisting (required a rubber band on the ball to keep it in place!). Due to the lack of red, I added orange stripes.
• Yellow  Cotton Tank. Made from 100% cotton purchased at Silk City Fibers. I used a reverse wide rib based on the threaded twist to the cotton. I was proud of the lines of the top despite the relatively simple item.
• Shaped Lace Tee Shirt. Made from Lamb’s Pride Cotton Fleece purchased at Purl By the Sea. I used Knitted Lingerie’s pattern. It is a dusty rose.
• Verona Socks. Made from Lion’s Brand (don’t cringe!) sock yarn.  These socks were started en route from Venice to Verona. I even knitted them waiting for the opera to start in Verona! Of course, they took me a year to finish!

Additionally, I made several scarves and triangular wraps for friends and family.

Further I extended my acquaintance with several yarn selling establishments. Among them were:

• Yarn Seller – Good resource with near/in York, ME.
• Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival – Always an incredible yarn experience. While trying on the pocketbook, it’s great for your stash especially given the smaller local farms.
• Knit Cafe – A mecca on Melrose in West Hollywood, CA.
• Colorful Stitch – A two story yarn emporium in Lennox, MA which has swatches of the various yarns and unusual samples.
• Webs - Well worth the trip! The back room/warehouse is a treasure trove of yarns at great prices.
• Purl By the Sea – At the end of the world, at least from a NYer’s perspective. A wonderful assortment of brands, colors, price points as well as tools.
• ArtFibers - A pink second floor enclave in San Francisco’s financial district. It allows you to test their various materials. It only sells their brands in colors to make your mouth water.
• Chix With Stix – A large airy store in Forest Park, IL. It has two knitting tables and a wonderful sofa for significant others.
• Loopy - Nestled in Chicago’s Loop this knitting treasure has a wonderful, helpful staff who don’t believe that you have to follow patterns religously! It carries a lot of small producers and a wide range of fibers.

Noteably, I wasn’t able to attend Rhinebeck this year. That said, my stash has grown very nicely.

P.S. Pictures of recent accomplishments will appear later.

Fishtail Lace Top-The Saga Continues

After testing a number of different lace patterns, I decided to use a plain stocking knit stitch for the top portion of the sweater and the main part of the sleeves.  The rationale for this design change was that using two different lace patterns involved more complex changes in terms of math and shaping and that the stockingknit stitch offset the beauty of the fishtail lace.

To offset the top portion of the sweater, I reduced the number of stitches to make it more fitted and used 4 rows of garter stitch instead of a ribbon used in the model.  I shaped the armholes to accommodate a set-in sleeve which I like. 

For the sleeves, I knitted 3 repeats of the fishtail lace to have a frilly cuff. Then I reduced the number of stitches and used 4 rows of garter stitch to set off the lace.

Origami Cardi Progress

The Origami Cardi has been a challenge due to the unusual shape. While I’m adept at modifying knitting instructions for  yarn and needle size, this project requires more faith since it doesn’t conform to routine sweater shapes.

Despite this, I’ve really enjoyed working on the sweater. Here are some initial shots of it now that I’ve finished the back and fronts. The pieces are pinned in place.

Origami Cardi Pinned In Place

Origami Cardi – Back and Front held to show construction detail